Legendary documentary filmmaker Frederick Wiseman’s latest film follows the Troisgros family and their restaurants, Troisgros, Le Central, and Colline de Colombia, located in three neighboring locations in central France.
Menus-Plaisirs – Les Troisgros premieres Friday, March 22 at 9 p.m. on WXXI-TV.
Much of the film takes place near Roanne at Troisgros, where the present chef, César Troisgros, is the fourth generation of the family to be in charge. Founded 93 years ago, the restaurant has maintained three Michelin stars for 55 years. The film explores the day-to-day operations of this restaurant, from purchasing fresh vegetables at the market, visits to a cheese processing plant, a vineyard, a cattle ranch working on best farming practices, and an organic farmer whose farm, along with the garden of the restaurant, provides organic produce for the restaurants.
The film shows the great artistry, ingenuity, imagination, and hard work of the restaurant staff in creating, preparing, and presenting meals of the highest quality. Characterized by his signature long-form style, Wiseman juxtaposes the choreographed chaos of the kitchen with pastoral shots of the French countryside, resulting in a comprehensive portrait of the Troisgros dynasty.
Throughout the film, the family’s interest in biodiversity is illustrated in their choice and preparation of their distinctive menu and their efforts to reduce food waste. Additionally, the collaboration within the Troisgros family is evident as the father, Michel, ponders the transfer of leadership in the kitchen to his son and collaborates with his wife, who runs the hotel, and his other son who runs La Colline de Colombia.
Photo: The restaurant staff • Credit: Zipporah Films